London Collections: Men SS16 came to a close yesterday, with LATHBRDIGE by Patrick Cox closing the four days of catwalks and presentations showing us what’s to come for next spring/summer. From smart, impeccable tailoring, to experimental and unique designs, the collections at LC:M had it all. One thing we noticed is that the man bag is back in a big way – whether it’s a casual backpack, an oversized document case, or slim patent leather bag. Here are favourite collections from this season.
The Savile Row brand has redefined sports luxe for its SS16 collection. Creative director Mehmet Ali dug into the archives, taking inspiration from the space-age costumes Amies designed for Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey in 1968. 1960s designs were given a futuristic feel with ‘filtration rib’ – a material that feels like liquid to the touch, while sportswear-inspired jackets were worn thrown over smartly cut suits. Bags were practical, with their colours echoing those in the clothes – think big leather holdalls and backpacks covered in pockets.
YMC, as ever, produced an eclectic collection for SS16. Its signature soft tailoring was seen in longline shirts and oriental-inspired work wear, while the colour palette was made up of indigo, jade, navy, black, and soft blues and pinks. Light scarves were tied around the neck, and the headwear was really interesting – something we often see from this fashion house. Vintage-style swimming caps were worn as the casual option, while looks were given a smarter aesthetic with stylised Bowler hats from Christys’.
Well-constructed summer tailoring was the look for Oliver Spencer’s SS16 collection. Taking inspiration from minimalist sculptor Richard Serra who used non-traditional materials, Spencer used clashing colours, prints and textures, using dark shades of aubergine, green and blue, and a mixture of tartan. Structured backpacks were finished in luxe leather, creating the perfect combination of smart and casual.
A collection fit for a desert explorer, Belstaff’s SS16 collection paid homage to its long history as a supplier to the British forces. Old Billingsgate on the Thames was turned into a base in the Sahara desert – jeeps, big canvas tents and Berber rugs included. True to form, the leather jackets were the stand-out pieces, updated in dark browns and tan and covered in pockets, while the colour palette was one suitable to the desert – think neutrals, browns and khaki. Big canvas backpacks in contrasting colours covered the model’s backs, resulting in an accessory for men that is both stylish and functional.
Burberry is always a highlight at LC: M, with the heritage brand constantly reinventing and revitalising its classic designs season after season. For SS16, there was a distinctive ‘60s influence, with models dressed in fitted sharp suits, intricate sheer lace shirts and skinny ties. The colour palette was made up of bottle greens, navy blues and mustards, while looks were finished off with tassled velvet slippers and slim patent leather bags or document cases.