From Erdem to Burberry, this season saw big names delving into the archives to uncover something special at London Fashion Week SS/18. From nineties checks to saccharine sweet, real housewives pastels, here are the trends to update your new season wardrobes with.
The Check List
From tweed to tartan, brands set to lay their stamp on an iconic piece of British fashion: the check.
Spattered across the runway at Emilia Wickstead, Simone Rocha and Topshop was tweed. Shaking off its ‘workwear’ label, the material took on an ‘it-girl-cool’ vibe with Wickstead’s coquettish spin and form-fitting silhouettes. Keeping in line with tweed’s new, youthful feel, Topshop showcased the fabric in heavy, oversized hoodies – a nod to their streetwear origins. But the name on everyone’s lips was of course Burberry, whose signature check saw its biggest comeback since the noughties with all over checkered coats, bags, shoes and the original Burberry cap.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BZOntJTAHNw/?taken-by=burberry
The Good Girl
Saccharine sweet pastels, sheer peekaboo lace and delicate ruffles introduced a new it-girl at London Fashion Week. After years of fashion’s celebration of the ‘bad girl’ a new, pinker, fluffier, muse appeared.
Perhaps an antidote to the sleeker, languid lines of the femme fatale, this new icon cascaded sheer ruffles in sorbet hues. At Erdem, girls in satin A-line skirts and matching patterned coats walking down the catwalk to Billie Holiday’s soulful jazz. Taking inspiration from Queen Elizabeth II, there was an air of royalty to the show.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BZMBB-RhRYl/?taken-by=erdem
The virtuous took centre stage with Simone Rocha’s angelic collection; natural paired back beauty, ivory-white satin and sheer trench coats seemed almost otherworldly. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi’s puritanical white slips and red bonnets alluded to The Handmaid’s Tale with a dishevelled air to the otherwise flawlessly fragile dresses.
Pink and Red
Blue and green should never be seen etc etc etc… Rules were meant to be broken hence our new favourite colour coordination: pink and red. From the rosy ruffles at Preen to the demure pinks of Erdem, the explosive nature of red and pink can utterly transform a look.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BZRVOPIApyd/?taken-by=jw_anderson
The Desperate Housewife
“I have always been obsessed by that pristine woman; so clean, so proper, yet having an emotional breakdown inside. It’s what goes on behind closed doors in those everyday environments: the smell of bleach, Royal Doulton figurines and a certain kind of British sauciness.” Christopher Kane’s obsession with suburbia continued for another season at LFW. Models walked the runway in fluid silhouettes, overshadowed by graphic floral ties, extended Peter Pan collars and cut out cardies. With Kane’s imagination, an otherwise frumpy pinafore is transformed into a semi-sheer dress, “Clean and kinky” is how he described it.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BZRciwOhxDH/?taken-by=christopherkane
Silver
Disco fever swept the runway at Anya Hindmarch, Versus Versace, and Topshop. “It’s about showing your personality in a fun and free way,” said Donatella Versace, ahead of her Versus show. “You need to be yourself.” It would seem that silver cuffed tartan, lime green embellishments and cowgirl denim define Donatella.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BZMKbPalpVH/?taken-by=topshop
Topshop’s high-fashion disco was less about the metallic and more about the high-powered sheen. Vinyl coats, and primary coloured satin boots stood out. Meanwhile, Anya Hindmarch’s otherwise prim and proper show took on a whole new aspect with a giant disco ball suspended over a makeshift house for her show’s finale.
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